Ubud – Exquisite combination of Culture, Spirituality and Cuisine

Bali is definitely any traveller’s dream destination. The lush greenery with meandering roads and a unique amalgam of culture, spirituality and cuisine make this island a very special one. One would want to visit this place a number of times. Bali is a paradise for solo travellers and heaven for vegans.

Upon landing in Bali( Ngurah Rai International airport), right from the immigration officer, every single person I came across including the taxi driver were very welcoming and friendly. I was waiting eagerly to start exploring Bali in spite of being tired after a long flight.

It took around 1.5 hours to reach Ubud from the airport.

Money exchange

It is best to withdraw cash upon arrival instead of getting it exchanged from India. The only thing that was confusing was the currency denominations, I had to withdraw thrice till I understood it is best to withdraw around 1000000 Indonesian Rupiah which will be approximately INR 5000 or US$70 at a time instead of getting charged for every transaction.  This should be enough to take care of the taxi charges and for dining out a couple of times depending on what your budget is. I used my credit card at hotels. Getting a local prepaid Sim card ( IDR 250000 from the airport) with a month’s validity is a good idea to stay connected everywhere during your stay in Indonesia.

Culture in Bali

Bali looked like a mix of Kerala and Goa plus an exquisite culture that was predominantly visible everywhere with the women performing prayers and the beautifully designed statues and mesmerizing idols of Balinese Gods.

The fragrance from incense sticks was soothing to the senses. To a great extent, I could relate the ambience to our culture back in India. Everything looked amazing.

Indonesia has the largest Muslim population in the world but Bali is the only island in Indonesia with a predominantly Hindu population. Balinese are ritualistic and do not miss an opportunity to offer flowers to Lord Ganesha and other deities several times a day.

It was a pleasure to watch the women wearing the traditional sarong and the sash following the customs and rituals every morning.

Top 6 places to see in Bali

Tirta Empul( Holy water temple)

It is a popular temple among the Balinese Hindus. The temple was founded in 962  A.D.Tirta Empul is dedicated to Lord Vishnu. The entrance fee is 15000 IDR. This is one of the busiest water temples in the country. Wearing a sarong is compulsory to enter this temple. You can get one while entering the temple and return it on exit. Be prepared to spend an hour to explore this temple. The atmosphere gives positive energy. You can see priests performing traditional rituals. I could hear the recital of the Gayatri mantra. The Balinese version of the Gayatri mantra initially sounds different but it is good.

The car parking is away from the temple. While walking you will find many shops on the way. You enter the temple through a large gateway to reach an open area called ” Jaba Pura”.

As you keep walking, you will find two purification pools where people were waiting to bathe. If you decide to participate in the bathing rituals, there is a place to rent another sarong and a locker to keep your things.

This temple is 15km from Ubud city centre.

Lake Batur

On the way, I  bought oranges and rambutan freshly plucked from nearby orchards. Lake Batur is the biggest lake in Bali. Lake Batur is at the foot of Mt.Batur which has an active volcano.

Bali GEO Coffee Plantation

Passion fruit

While coming back from Lake Batur, my driver suggested having a look at the Bali Geo Organic farm since I was asking about the kinds of coffee in Bali. As we entered the parking area, an extremely friendly lady started the free tour and walked me through the farm showing different kinds of fruits and spices they grow.

After a while, I was shown the Arabica and Robusta leaves and explained the cultivating process. A few steps from here were 3 Luwak cats. Luwak cats are used in making one of the world’s most expensive coffees. The fact that they are caged did not appeal to me but it was interesting ( I was told that they are released every 3 months, I feel they should be left in a large open area for them to have some moving space)to see how the seeds are picked, cleaned, roasted and then hand pounded to make the expensive coffee.

Pounding the coffee beans

The Luwak cats are known to pick the best berries and they eat the whole bean without chewing and their digestive systems are in such a way that they do not digest the beans and the excrements come as whole beans with a better taste added to it. That makes this coffee unique and special. A cup of Luwak coffee is 50000 IDR(which is optional). You will also be given a free tasting of 15 types of tea and coffee.

My favourite was Mangosteen and lemongrass tea. At the end of the tour, you are taken to their store to buy their products. I liked the fact that they did not force you to buy anything in spite of giving such an informative free tour.

Wood factory

I went to have a look at Daging Wood Carvers. It was wonderful to see the types of wood they use in making things. They have beautiful things made from coconut shells and have a huge collection of wooden statues made from solid wood. The quality of the products is very good. Remember to bargain the price. You can ask for a very less price than quoted by them even after they have given you any discount. If you pay in dollars, they reduce the price even more. I got a huge discount for a few things.

Rice fields

Jatiluwih rice terrace

I loved the terraces here. The undulating topography is walker-friendly and the lush green rice terraces are a treat to the eyes. It is very calm and peaceful. Here, I could enjoy a leisurely walk since there were not many tourists. There are small huts in between to sit if you want a stop. This is a perfect stop for nature lovers. Plan a visit to this place in the morning before going to Tanah lot. The entrance fee is 40000 IDR.

Is it worth visiting Tegalalang rice terraces?

This is just 30 minutes drive from Ubud centre. If you are running short of time, then Tegalalang is an option instead of Jatiluwih terraces. The entrance is by donation. It gets very hot while walking, be prepared to have a hat with you. As you enter, you will find the famous ” I Love Bali” swing that will be guarded by 2 kids of the owner. They ask you for 10000 to take you around but after a few steps, some more people come and ask for more. I didn’t explore it fully but it all looked lovely. It looks commercialized. It is not fair to be asked for a donation at every step. Instead, they can charge an entrance fee for the whole place.

Tanah Lot

This is a beautiful temple located on a rock in the middle of the sea and was built to worship the sea god.

• After the parking area, you will come across a lane full of shops and cafes. Unlike other temples in Bali, here, foreigners are not allowed inside the temple. However, the view from outside itself is magnificent. There is a cave where the holy snake lives and guards the temple against evil.

This place was crowded by local and international tourists. All of us were waiting for the sunset which was beautiful and it was worth waiting for. The entrance ticket for an adult is 60000 IDR.

Ulan Danu Beratan temple

The temple is located some 45 km from Ubud city. It is built right on the shore of Lake Beratan which is at an altitude of about 4000 ft above sea level. This beautiful water temple was built in dedication to the holy trinity Brahma, Vishnu and Shiva and also Dewi Danu, the goddess of the lake.

It was a foggy day and as I entered the temple complex, Hindu and Buddist architecture was prominent. The 11 tiered temple was so picturesque. The reflection in the water surrounded by misty mountains and verdant scenery all around created a surreal feeling which can hardly be put in words. The entrance fee is 50000 IDR

Felt like a celebrity 

I was approached by a bunch of tourists from other parts of Indonesia for a photograph. I asked whether they want me to click their photographs? They said they want a photograph with me. I said okay..then came a few more groups with families. This went on for some time. After having a conversation with them, I learnt that they all are very fond of India and Bollywood movies. This was an experience.

Accommodation in Ubud

There is a variety of accommodation options available in Bali. I chose to stay in Ubud as it is centrally located in Bali. You can easily reach any other place with a maximum of 2 hours within Bali.

From my personal experience, I would recommend the below 3 boutique hotels during your stay in Ubud

1. Sapodilla Ubud– Close to the  Monkey Forest. This is one of the best hotels I have ever stayed in. Afternoon tea with some snacks is complimentary. They offer free shuttle services within the city. You will be given a small phone to use to call them anytime you need a shuttle from any part of the city. I would give 7 stars for their hospitality and excellent breakfast facing the pool on your balcony. If you stay here for a longer period, a complimentary Balinese massage is also included.
2. Tebesaya CottageThis is a beautiful hotel with 12 Deluxe rooms. As you enter the place, there is a mix of Balinese and contemporary architecture. The swimming pool is beautiful. The breakfast is served on your balcony. This is something I love about many hotels in Bali.
3. Villa Sonia    If you are looking for a quiet place and at the same time walking distance to monkey forest and other places, this is the one. The room was spacious. I was amazed to see a huge room with Balinese art and decorations.  I particularly loved the window bench in the room from where the view was majestic with so much greenery. There are many cafes nearby and also convenience stores.

Transportation

1. Taxi – Arranging a taxi through your hotel is the best way, particularly for airport transfers and trips within Bali.
2. Moto taxi-  If you are travelling solo, this is an excellent and cheap option to travel within the city. You will be the pillion rider on a motorbike.
3. Renting a motorbike- It is the best way to explore Bali provided you know how to ride a bike. It is not advisable during the rainy season as it can get slippery.

Unlike Thailand, where you can rely on public transportation, travelling within Bali can be a bit expensive.

Vegan food in Ubud

Balinese breakfast

I really found the Balinese breakfast to be very interesting and exotic. I am not a coffee drinker at all but their coffee is unique with a very mild flavour to it. It is more fruity with a magical aroma. The type of coffee that is usually found in Bali is mainly the Robusta coffee and Arabica is becoming popular as well.  The moment I told the receptionist about my diet preference, they were more than accommodative to provide me with a number of options. My breakfast with a piece of beautiful Indonesian music in the background.

My favourite items from Balinese breakfast were

• Nasi Goreng(Balinese version of fried rice with vegetables) with peanut sauce
• Banana pancakes topped with roasted coconut and brown sugar
• Banana fritters with a cup of Balinese coffee
• Lempog ( Boiled Cassava dipped in Balinese palm sugar)

Where to eat vegan food

Ubud is filled with vegan cafes and I was super excited to see this and tried eating in many places. My frequent visits were to The Sage and Sawobali due to the proximity to the places that I stayed in. However, I liked a few other places as well. My top 4 recommendations would be

The Sage

It is an excellent place near the south side of the Monkey Forest. It has a lovely ambience and I tried many of the dishes and loved them all. They also have free delivery within the city limits. Credit cards are accepted.

Sawobali

It is located opposite to Coco supermarket on  Monkey forest road. Sawobali has an authentic Indonesian fusion buffet spread that is unbelievably cheap. A buffet spread was just for 50000 IDR( approx INR 250, USD 3.50). Some of their mouth-watering dishes are eggplant, rice noodles and Kaffir lime soup. The price is inclusive of unlimited purified drinking water. All their dishes are garlic and onion free making it a perfect place for yoga practitioners.

La Pacha Mama

It is a great place for Mexican food. The food is delicious and so is the atmosphere with live music. Their price is slightly on the higher side.

Tukies Coconut Shop

Since Bali is near the equator, the sun’s rays are too strong. It was a hot day and I was looking for a cafe to have a cold drink and there I found this little gem ” Tukies” Their coconut ice cream is the best with grated and roasted coconut on top. It is highly recommended if you are a coconut lover since there are many more coconut dishes on their menu.

Top 3 food items not to be missed while in Bali

Rambutan

Rambutan is a nutritious tropical fruit. I had it for the first time and loved it so much that I bought them every day during my stay. It tastes a lot like litchi but much sweeter than litchi. It took me some time to figure out how to open the fruit :).

Tempeh

Tempeh is used widely in Indonesia. It is a traditional product of Indonesia. It has a firm texture and nutty flavour of Soybean and tastes somewhat like Tofu. Tempeh is added with salads, gravy and rice. I liked it with rice or just fried Tempeh.

Young coconut

I have had coconut water in many places but I must say that the coconut in Bali is the best. They taste sweet. The first time I ordered a coconut, I was surprised to see the size of it. The table was almost fully occupied by the coconut and I  was wondering where would the other dishes go :).

Balinese relaxation massage

We all would have heard about the Balinese Massage at least once in our lives. It is known for giving deep relaxation and is gentle compared to some other massages that I have had. Expect to pay between 135000 IDR- 150000 IDR for a 90-minute massage  (approx INR 700, USD 10). There are lots of massage parlours everywhere and the prices may vary according to the facilities and the location.

Shopping

You get really good cotton clothes in the Ubud market and Monkey Forest Road. Some things that I found interesting were the Batik Sarong, Sandals and Silver jewellery. Bargaining is common.

I can’t wait to make another trip to Bali.