Sheki- a picturesque city in the Caucasus Mountains

Sheki Video

Most tourists start and end their Azerbaijan trip exploring Baku and its surrounding areas. Unique landscapes and authentic Azerbaijani culture can be seen and experienced once you travel beyond Baku. Sheki is one such place with scenic beauty, delectable food, hospitable people, and a great lot of activities for travellers.

Travelling some 300km from Baku, the landscape of Sheki is greener and away from the pollution of Baku, the air is fresh and crisp with a number of streams flowing. A city with several soviet time Ladas on the roads gives a totally different and laid-back atmosphere. In spite of being a small city, it still has so many interesting things to offer. It is located in the Greater Caucasus and has spectacular views from many places. Sheki can be kept as a base to explore some nearby places.

You can either take a bus, Marshrutka, or a taxi from Baku to reach Sheki. I really wanted to take the train but train services were suspended after the pandemic started and are yet to resume. Buses run daily from Baku starting at 9:50 am with the last bus at 11:20 pm.

Bus from Baku to Sheki

It takes about 5.5 hours to reach Sheki.  The bus starts from Baku International Bus Terminal.

If you are travelling from the city centre, you can either take the metro to Avtovaghzal or a Bolt taxi costing 5 AZN. I took pictures of the Terminal from outside, and to my surprise, I was approached by the police. The policeman told me that it is not allowed to take pictures of the bus Terminal. I was asked to delete the photos from my camera. Well, I didn’t dare to take more pictures until the bus started moving.

Anyway, after the photo episode, I went inside to get the bus tickets. The next bus would leave at 2 pm. The price of the ticket is 8.40 AZN. Since I had some 1.5 hours left, I thought I would go find the platform first and then explore a bit. Luckily, the bus was there and I dropped off my luggage in the luggage compartment of the bus. You can buy water and snacks for your journey from the shops there.

The bus journey begins

Finally, we were allowed to go inside. The ticket has a seat number printed. The bus was almost full. There was an Azeri lady sitting next to me and we couldn’t understand each other but managed to communicate with gestures and expressions. After a while, I started using Google Translate. She was a very kind and helpful person. I got many suggestions about where to eat, places to see, etc. The wonderful Azeri lady got down a few stops before Sheki.

There was a 30-minute stop in between to use the washroom. The toilets are squat type and smelly. Carry your own toilet paper. There is also a small restaurant there. Overall, it was a very comfortable and pleasant journey.

Reached Sheki

On reaching the Sheki bus Terminal, I used the Bolt app to book a taxi. It was some 7:30 pm and the app was showing ”try after some time since the drivers are all busy”. I was getting a little tense as it was already dark and what if I didn’t find a taxi since I couldn’t find anyone there who could speak English and my broken Azeri with just a couple of words did not work. To my luck, a girl named Ayten approached me asking if I speak English I happily said Yes and she offered to drop me off at my hotel on her way. Well, she was also a traveller like me but from a different region of Azerbaijan. It took just  5 minutes by taxi to reach my hotel. I checked into the hotel and crashed out.

The next morning, I woke up to have one of the best breakfasts in Azerbaijan. It was a big, fresh and delicious organic breakfast.

From Carvansarais to Sheki’s architecture, and handicrafts to mouth-watering sweets, there are many things to explore here as a traveler. If you like wandering in the streets with charming architecture and breathtaking views, Sheki is a perfect place for you.

Not to forget, I met amazing people in Sheki who were friendly and helpful to the tourists. There is no chance of you getting lost as the people will approach you if they feel you are having a hard time figuring out directions. I found Sheki to be a very safe place for solo travellers.

Things to do in Sheki

Palace of Shaki Khans or the Summer Palace

My first day in Sheki started with getting the city map from the hotel reception. I decided to visit the Palace of Shaki Khans. I booked a taxi using Bolt App and the car arrived in less than 5 minutes. The fare came to less than 1 AZN. The entry fee to the palace is 5 AZN. As you enter, there are fortress walls and a well-maintained garden.

I was expecting a huge palace but it is a relatively smaller version of a palace that was built in 1762 as a summer residence for the Sheki Khans. There are six rooms in total constructed on two floors.

The intricate designs, workmanship, paintings, and decorations are impressive. You can enjoy all the beauty and register the memories in a journal or something since photography is not allowed inside the palace.

Visit the Winter Palace

My next stop for the day was the lesser-known Winter Palace. I used Google Maps but ended up in some mosque or probably a graveyard. I was so sure that was the Winter Palace and I walked straight inside. There came a man running towards me asking me not to enter. He spoke Russian. By now, there was another man with his 2 grandchildren. He saw the map and spoke a little English and offered to walk me to the winter palace. Sheki has one of the most friendliest and amazing people.

The entry ticket is 5 AZN and to my surprise, I was advised not to take videos or pictures inside the palace contrary to what I read on the web about the Winter Palace that photography is allowed. Well, my experience was different. I guess the rules have changed now.

I somehow managed to take a picture of the Shebeke art(these are windows with coloured glass made without the use of any glue or nails). This place is smaller and I could spend more time and have the whole place to myself.

You should not miss the Sheki Karvansaray

You can reach here from the Winter Palace on foot in less than 10 minutes. Walking along the cobbled streets, passing the quaint residential houses, and meeting some of the most amazing people, I reached the Sheki Karvansaray.

The moment you enter, you notice the entire place is built with stone and the architecture is just wow. This is definitely one of the best gems of Sheki.

This Caravanserai was built in the 18th century to accommodate people traveling the Silk Road. It used to be one of the biggest Carvansarais in the Caucasus region.

The place is now being run as a hotel with a wonderful restaurant onsite serving authentic Azerbaijani cuisine. You can directly go there and reserve a room since they do not have an online booking system. I did go there to check the rooms and the tariff. For a standard double room, it is 30 AZN and a deluxe room would be 50 AZN which is so reasonable. Breakfast is not included.

I really wanted to spend at least a night there but found the rooms to be not well maintained. They are dusty and the bathrooms are smelly. However, I really wish the management would take measures to maintain it well since it has an excellent atmosphere and the rooms are lovely.

It would be a lifetime experience to stay in such a beautiful Caravanserai that was once used by travellers during the Silk Road times. If you choose to stay here, please go for the Deluxe room as it is better looking and the bathrooms are cleaner.

Don’t leave Sheki without trying their Baklava

Sheki is famous for its sweets and even though the entire country has different versions of Baklava, I found Sheki Baklava to be the best. It is made with rice flour topped with hazelnuts, cardamon, coriander seeds, and saffron. There are many places that serve you this but my suggestion is to try it at Ahmed Ali Sweet House.

Visit the scenic Kungut village

Kungut village is 25 km from Sheki city. By taxi, it takes around 35 minutes to reach. This time, I had the company of my new friend Ayten whom I met at Sheki bus station on the first day of my arrival. We arranged a taxi for 15 AZN for a two-way trip from Sheki City including the waiting time. It was quite a bumpy ride for some time.

On the slopes of the Caucasus mountains and amidst the lush green forest, Kungut village is a perfect place to spend the day exploring the apple orchards and some unique flora and fauna native to this region.

It is a picture-perfect location with horses grazing on green pastures surrounded by the majestic Caucasus mountains.

Crossing a small bridge over a stream led us to the top of a mountain with a spectacular view of the place.

We decided to spend some time having Chai with the famous Shaki Baklava in a restaurant here. There are newly built cottages that have been recently opened. The place looks straight out of a fairytale.

The sun was beginning to set and it was time to leave. Our driver was waiting for us. It was such a pleasant day.

Take a day trip to the remote Lahic Village

Lahic is a small village in the district of Ismailly. From Sheki Bus Station, you can take a Marshrutka to Ismailly. We took the Marshrutka going to Baku but had to pay the same fare as to Baku which is 9 AZN. It took about 1.5 hours to reach Ismailly.

There are minibusses running from Ismailly to Lahic but the frequency is less. After waiting for a while, we started asking taxi drivers. There was a lot of negotiation( that part was done by Ayten as she speaks Azeri). One driver agreed to a total of 25 AZN ( both ways)including waiting time charges and showing some other places on our way. This was a great bargain.

If I was travelling alone from Sheki, I would have taken a taxi which would come to 60 AZN ( quoted by the hotel manager) but I would say that I was lucky to get the company of an Azeri. Travel is all about the experience and it was indeed a great and authentic experience interacting with the locals along with a local.

Watch ”Trip to Lahic” Video

On the way, there is a suspension bridge that you can cross for 1 AZN. The view was amazing though I could go just halfway through. The drive was adventurous with winding roads and hairpin bends with scenic views of the mountains. After an hour’s drive, we reached Lahic village.

Upon entering the village, we were welcomed by smiling and curious faces. Lahic is a small village in the Niyal mountains. There were not many tourists at that time. It seems the village is usually crowded during the summer season. There is one main cobbled street and many alleys.  On entering, you can find handicrafts being sold everywhere. You can also find locals selling fresh mountain herbs and spices.

Lahic clearly seems to have the best craftsmen in Azerbaijan. You can find traditional carpets, jewellery, hats and so many things made of copper (copper artefacts being the major export from here).

It was wonderful to take a stroll along the streets passing by some colourful old stone houses. There is also an ATM in this tiny village.

In this unique village, houses are made of stone and wood that are known to withstand earthquakes. That makes this tiny village very advanced in terms of architecture. If you are looking for an off-the-beaten place, this place is a must-see as a day trip from Sheki or Baku.

On our way back to Ismailly, we had Qutabs from a roadside cafe. It was clearly the best Qutab I had with fresh herbs from the mountains cooked right in front of us.

Spend some time exploring the Caucasian Albanian Church in Kish

Kish church is just about 5 km from the city. It is one of the oldest churches in the Caucasus. The name is not associated with Albanians from the Balkans, Europe. The Caucasian Albanians refer to the people who lived in this area during that period. You will be paying 4 AZN for the entry fee. The church is scenically located with mountains in the background and a garden with pomegranate trees within the compound. The current building was built in the 12th century. There is a crypt that can be viewed through a glass dome. Clay pots and vases are displayed that were found from excavations. The information is in English as well.

Places to eat

There are many restaurants, cafes, and sweet shops in Sheki. I recommend

Old Town Shaki

Excellent location with live music and peacocks running around. The food is good and reasonably priced.

Illy Espresso House

This little cafe is a perfect place to work on your laptop or meet up with friends. It is located inside a building that is 300 years old. Their cappuccino is very good. In a tea-dominated Azerbaijan, this place serves excellent coffee in a cozy atmosphere.

Minali Restaurant

Right in the city center, the restaurant serves quality food with a beautiful view.

Karvansaray Restaurant

They serve authentic Azerbaijani food and options are plenty.

There are many sweet shops selling traditional halwa. Ahmed Ali is a great place and easy to locate.

By any chance, if you are not able to make it for dinner or lunch, there are small fruit shops selling fresh fruits and nuts. I bought a huge bunch of Black and Green Grapes and a couple of bananas for around 3 AZN only. Hazelnuts are available in plenty and so are other nuts. Sheki will not let you go hungry.

Where to stay in Sheki

Yaffle Inn Boutique Hotel is located right in the city centre. I find booking.com to be reliable for booking hotel rooms. The room I stayed in was a deluxe double room that was comfortable. I paid 65 AZN per night including a sumptuous breakfast. Since it is a small hotel,  a separate table in the restaurant is reserved for each room for the duration of the stay.

Minali Boutique Hotel is another hotel I highly recommend which is also in the city center. The rooms are well decorated with all the facilities. The room rate would be approximately 80 AZN including breakfast. The breakfast area is on the top floor with a wonderful view of the mountains. The restaurant ambience is good with some instrumental music in the background that is perfect for breakfast time.

The Karavansaray Hotel is recommended for its unique experience. The nightly room rates are 30 AZN and 50 AZN for a standard room and a deluxe room respectively. However, looking at the present condition, it needs some renovation at the earliest. For making a reservation, you need to go there in person or you can ask the receptionist at the hotel you are staying in. They can call them and make a reservation for you.

For other details on travel to Azerbaijan, you can read my other posts Azerbaijan- Solo Travel Guide and Baku- a Fusion of Ancient History and Futuristic Architecture