I spent 10 days exploring two places in northern Vietnam: the capital city of Hanoi and the charming town of Tam Coc in the Ninh Binh region. To truly experience Vietnam’s rich culture, diverse landscapes and delicious cuisine, one needs at least a month travelling from north to south.

Table of contents

Arrival at Hanoi International Airport

After a smooth landing and an ultra-smooth 2-minute immigration process, I was super excited to start exploring.
To get to the city from the airport, you can take a bus to the old town or a taxi preferably arranged by your hotel to avoid haggling with taxi drivers. Taking the bus would be a good option if you have light luggage and your hotel is near the bus stop in the old quarters otherwise you will have to walk with your luggage from the bus stop to the hotel. I had requested an airport pick-up from my hotel and reached the hotel in about 45 minutes.
Upon arriving in Hanoi, I experienced slightly cloudy yet pleasant weather at around 19°C. As I made my way to the hotel in the old quarter, the bustling streets came alive, dominated by the countless scooters navigating through the traffic.

Where to Stay

The Old Quarter in Hanoi is the best area to stay during your visit as many of the points of interest are located within or near this area. Most pickup points for tours and further travel in Vietnam are generally from the hotels in the Old Quarter. You’ll find many boutique hotels and Airbnb here. Most of the boutique hotels are converted old houses, so make sure to check the reviews. During my time in Hanoi, I stayed at two hotels in Hanoi located in the Old Quarter- one when I first arrived and the other after returning from Ninh Binh before leaving Vietnam. I had a positive experience at both places.
First, I stayed at Hanoi Golden Moon Hotel, a small boutique hotel situated right on the main road. The room was comfortable with all the required facilities. The service was great. I loved the thoughtfully prepared breakfast each day during my stay. They had good options for vegetarians and vegans.


After spending a relaxing week in Ninh Binh( I’ll share details about that later in this post), I returned to Hanoi for two more days before departing Vietnam. This time I checked into the  Hanoi Hotel Royal, just a five-minute walk from the previous hotel. Although this hotel was somewhat difficult to locate, it was still centrally located. Upon check-in, I received a complimentary room upgrade. The room was spacious with a king-sized bed plus an additional bed. I found it convenient to use the extra bed to place my things. The room here was fancier with a small balcony facing one of the city’s bustling streets. Breakfast was great here as well.

Video

Exploring Hanoi

The Old Quarter

The Old Quarter is the heart of Hanoi. Upon entering the area, you will first notice countless motorbikes on the streets weaving through traffic. Crossing the road requires skill and having experience in India, I was lucky to be able to manage. The trick is to keep walking without stopping until you have safely crossed the road.

There are many narrow lanes and streets each offering some unique speciality. With so many small cafes, bakeries and restaurants, you’ll never go hungry here. One prominent thing is the street food smells- some were pleasant while others were overpowering like nowhere I had ever experienced. This is all part of the unique experience here.

The Vietnamese culture is distinct from other Southeast Asian countries I’ve visited. I particularly enjoyed watching people dine outdoors at cafes and restaurants, where small plastic stools and tables fill the lively streets. It was fun dining outdoors at some small eateries that turned out to be hidden gems.

Experiencing Hanoi as a Vegan!

If you want to try street food as a vegan, you will have limited options since Vietnam is heavy on meat consumption and most of the street food is meat-based. However, you can find vendors selling fresh fruits, grilled corn, and Bahn Mi sandwiches. It is interesting to see how these vendors balance and carry the baskets on a wooden rod.

You can find several vegan restaurants in the area making it easy to find food for vegans and vegetarians From my experience, some of the smallest cafes turned out to be the best. To spot a vegan café is pretty easy. If you find the word Chay, it is usually vegan or at least vegetarian. Northern Vietnamese food is low on spices with a lot of herbs and vegetables.

Some Vegan cafes I recommend!

Bahn Mi Vegan

This eatery is located in the old quarter on the main road but make sure not to miss the board since it’s a very small shop. The owner understands English well. A Bahn Mi along with a drink will cost about 60000 VND. From my experience, this place serves the best Bahn Mi in town.

Ivegan Supershop

There’s another place located in the old quarter -the IVegan Supershop. Despite its name, it’s a café that serves fresh juices and flavourful bowls. They offer both indoor and outdoor seating. The price is slightly on the higher side compared to other places. A large Nutri Bowl with a drink would cost around 170000 VND.

Bahn Mi Chay

Banh Mi Chay( which is now renamed Bao An Vegan) on Trung Hung Dao Street is a café with an open kitchen offering the best authentic Vietnamese dishes. To locate this place can be tricky, look for signs on the main streets and ask locals for help. It is run by a Vietnamese couple and the wife understands English pretty well. Falafel Bahn Mi was great and so were the spring rolls. I liked their service and the prices are very reasonable. For just about 55000 VND, I could have a great lunch. They even provide filtered water to fill our bottles instead of buying plastic bottles- a great initiative to reduce plastic usage. Overall, the cost of eating out in Vietnam is inexpensive.

Gujarat Indian Restaurant in Old Quarter

There are many Indian restaurants too. I particularly liked the Gujarat restaurant for its fresh food and quick service.

Weekend Night market of Hanoi

Plan your trip to Hanoi during weekends to explore the night market. It’s a large market where you can enjoy great shopping at affordable prices. People in Hanoi are generally friendly. However, some shopkeepers can be aggressive. They expect you to buy anything that you even look at or touch, and if you decide not to purchase something, they get upset and angry. You can find everything from clothes and handicrafts to inexpensive electronics. Yes, the market was crowded. Overall, it was an interesting experience.

Visiting the ancient Temple of Literature

After a short taxi ride from the Old Quarter, I reached The Temple of Literature. This was built in the year 1070 and later in 1076, Vietnam’s first national university was established here. The courtyards and the architecture are amazing.

School children come here to take blessings before their exams by visiting the temple dedicated to Confucius and scholars of Vietnam. This is a great place to understand some history of Vietnam and also see the ancient architecture that has been well preserved for more than 1000 years. The entry fee is 70000 VND.

Watching the unique Water Puppet Show of Hanoi

I went to get the tickets and was surprised by the crowd at the ticket counter. The show runs some 5 -6 times a day but most of the seats were full. I managed to get the tickets for the afternoon show. The VIP tickets cost 200000 VND. I could get the corner seat in the second row.

The Water Puppet Show was wonderful. This is the place to experience live Vietnamese musical performances with puppets dancing on water telling tales of Vietnamese folklore.

Hoan Kiem Lake

Just across the road from Thang Long Water Puppet Theatre is the beautiful Hoan Kiem Lake. It is a popular spot for both locals and tourists. The Huc Red Bridge stands out and its reflection on the lake looks stunning. The area comes alive in the evenings with locals jogging, exercising and vendors selling snacks along the lakeside.

Hanoi to Ninh Binh by Bus

After experiencing the vibrant and lively Hanoi, I wanted to have a peaceful time to relax in a small town in the countryside. I booked a bus ticket to Tam Coc in the Ninh Binh region. Known for its beautiful landscapes and laid-back atmosphere, Ninh Binh is often referred to as the Halong Bay on land. Ninh Binh is just a 1.5-hour ride (with a stop for refreshments)from Hanoi on a luxury bus. I was dropped off right in front of my homestay.

Accommodation in Tam Coc

Finding accommodation in Tam Coc is quite easy, as there are numerous homestays and a few hotels available. I stayed at Tam Coc Westlake Homestay, which is situated on a street lined with various other homestays. It is centrally located, with the river just across the street. I loved the area so much that I could easily spend many days there.

The location is surrounded by nature creating a very peaceful atmosphere. My spacious room was on the first floor and had a balcony with a partial view of the limestone mountains. What came as a bonus was a private entrance. The host was welcoming and provided a map highlighting the places of interest. I rented a bicycle from my homestay for 10000 per day.

My first impression of this place was great and soon after refreshing, I started pedalling through the town. My first stop was Ngon Café for lunch. The food was fresh and there were many options on their menu. During the day, you will find many tourists but by the end of the day, the place becomes very calm.

Bich Dong Pagoda

Just 3km from Tam Coc is the beautiful Bich Dong Pagoda. I cycled through flat roads with barely any inclines surrounded by rice fields. Despite some traffic, I enjoyed the ride. I parked my bike at one of the designated spots for bikes by paying 10000 VND. There are many shops where you have to buy something and they let you park your bikes but I preferred parking at the entrance since my Homestay owner advised me to do so.

There is a beautiful lake surrounded by limestone cliffs, and as you walk further, you will encounter an ancient entrance. The Bích Động Pagoda is built into a limestone mountain on three levels. The climb between each level is short, but some sections can be quite steep.

Built in the 15th century, the Pagoda is known as the’’ Second Most Beautiful Grotto in Vietnam.”
At the top, there is a dark cave that feels mystical with little natural light, and it is easy to imagine that the monks once used this cave for meditation. Despite attracting many visitors, Bích Động Pagoda has not lost its charm and one can feel the tranquillity and spirituality of this place. Here, history, nature, and spirituality blend seamlessly.

Evenings in Tam Coc

Tam Coc town is small with a few shops and cafes. I went to a salon for a foot massage and then enjoyed dinner at a café. Watching the river and the sunset is a perfect way to end your day here.

Where to eat in Tam Coc

During my entire stay, I only dined at Ngon Vegan and Tam Coc Ngo Dong, and I was so satisfied with both places that I didn’t feel the need to try anywhere else. Breakfast at my homestay was simple yet delicious.

Cycling through rice fields

There are many long stretches of rice fields in the area and it was such a lovely experience cycling through those lush fields and meeting locals along the way. Imagine cycling in the middle of these vibrant fields surrounded by tall limestone cliffs, with just the sounds of pedalling, the wind and the birds. I thoroughly enjoyed the picturesque and peaceful countryside.

Tam Coc boat ride

In Ninh Binh, there are two popular spots for boat tours: Tam Coc and Trang An. Tam Coc boat ride begins in Tam Coc town, while Trang An is about 12 kilometres from Tam Coc. I opted for Tam Coc since it was close to where I was staying.
It was early in the morning, and it was drizzling. At 8 AM, the ticket counter opened, and there was a Vietnamese group ahead of me in line. I waited at the counter, hoping to find another solo traveller to share the boat with, but I didn’t find anyone at that time. So, I decided to rent the entire boat for 500000 VND, and I felt it was well worth it. The boat ride lasted around two hours, and I thoroughly enjoyed every moment.

As I boarded the boat, my rower greeted me and handed me a life jacket to wear. Just a few minutes later, it started raining, she offered me an umbrella. To begin with, she rowed with her hands but later used her feet to row the boat. As it was early morning, it was so peaceful with just a few other boats passing by.

After a while, a woman approached with a camera, asking if I wanted my picture taken. I politely declined, and she smiled and moved on. My boat woman was friendly and tried to explain about the places we were passing. It was fascinating to see her rowing with her feet. I learned that this way of rowing is unique to Tam Coc. The boat ride takes you through three caves and returns to the starting point. The scenery of lush green rice fields, calm waters, and the sound of rowing was nothing short of magical.

On the way back, the boat woman offered me some handicrafts to buy, but I gently declined. She was understanding and didn’t pressure me to make a purchase. I tipped her 60,000 VND and she was so happy, giving me a wide smile in return.

There are a few more interesting places to visit like Mua Caves and Tang An Boat ride. Do include Ninh Binh for a peaceful retreat with beautiful landscapes away from the hustle and bustle of Hanoi.

Conclusion

I found Hanoi to be a great introduction to Vietnam. The city is charming with parks, lakes, excellent architecture, and great food. Fresh produce such as fruits and vegetables are available in plenty. I particularly enjoyed some of the sweetest fresh strawberries during my visit.
Ninh Binh in contrast offers an opportunity to experience the countryside of Vietnam. This beautiful, peaceful and relaxing region is home to ancient temples, stunning landscapes, memorable boat rides and tasty cuisine.
Overall, I had a great time at both destinations and hope to explore other parts of Vietnam in the future.

 

This post may contain affiliate links. Please read my Privacy and Disclosure Policy