Chiang Mai is in the mountainous region of Northern Thailand. It is less crowded, quieter, a very safe place for solo travellers and heaven for vegans. A perfect city for travellers seeking peace with a totally different atmosphere compared to Bangkok and other beach cities of Thailand. One would come across a number of Buddhist temples with gilded intricate ornamental carvings and religious symbols. The city has all the facilities and I found a number of expatriates especially retired westerners here.
How to reach Chiang Mai
The easiest way is to take a flight from Bangkok or an overnight train from Bangkok. I booked my ticket on Thai airways from India to Chiang Mai. I had to clear the immigration at Bangkok Suvarnabhumi airport since it was the port of entry. The immigration at Suvarnabhumi airport is faster compared to Don Mueng airport.
After a short flight from Bangkok, reached Chiang Mai. You have to walk until the last gate to get a prepaid taxi. I paid 150 Bahts and had to wait for some time for the cab to arrive.
The city can be easily explored by Songthaews by paying a standard 30 Bahts to most of the places within the city limits. From one end of the city to the other, you will be paying 60 Bahts.
The best time to visit Chiang Mai is between October and April when the weather is pleasant. I went there during the month of January and the evenings were cool. In fact, a light jacket would be comfortable.
Chiang Mai offers plenty of activities ranging from Yoga, Spa, Adventure, and nature minus beaches. You can also opt for day tours from Chiang Mai.
Chiang Rai temple tour
You can book a day tour package from the tour operators in the city or you can book through the hotel. I paid 1000 bahts to visit the white temple, Blue temple and a museum including lunch in a local restaurant. I was picked up from the hotel on a 2/2 seater air-conditioned minibus. It is a full-day tour.
The White temple
The original name of this temple is Wat Rong Khun. This is one of the most beautiful temples I have seen. It is not just the architecture of this temple that makes it so special but also the theme is very interesting.
Outstretching hands depicting the wants and desires by humans
To begin with, you start walking through a bridge over a lake from where you can see thousands of outstretching hands signifying the desire and all the transient materialistic things that we humans yearn for. The teachings of Buddha are so well seen throughout the temple. As you cross the bridge, you enter the Gate Of Heaven ( at this point you have left that attachment for the material things and aiming towards the ultimate truth that is the path to attain liberation or nirvana). The white colour all over the temple signifies the purity of Buddha.
Another interesting thing to be noticed is the golden colour(represents our attachment to the material wealth) of the building where the restrooms are located.
Blue temple
This is a beautiful temple built recently in 2016 and is not as crowded as The White temple. At the entrance, you will find a blue dragon. I loved the blue colour all over with golden adornments and the attractive designs inside especially the designs on the ceiling. Inside the temple, you will find a gorgeous white statue of Buddha.
The white statue with blue walls and ceiling took me to a state of divine contemplation. I have not come across another blue temple anywhere else in Thailand.
The entrance to this temple is free and if you will be taking a tour from Chiang Mai, there will probably be a stop here. If you are staying at Chiang Rai, you can walk to the temple or tuk-tuks are easily available. Photography inside the temple is allowed. You are expected to cover your shoulders and knees.
Baan Dam(Black House)
This is totally the opposite of what we saw in the White Temple. Here, instead of getting to heaven, it makes you feel like how it would be in hell. Everything on display is dark(almost black). Hence, it gets the name ”Black House”. There is a collection of skins, skeletons and horns of wild animals and snakes. I believe these represent the sufferings we go through as per our karmas.
I found the place to be dark and eerie. This was part of the tour and I somehow did not enjoy it. However, the external wooden architecture of the building is impressive. There are benches to sit in case you just want to relax and skip some of the displays here.
The sacred most Doi Suthep temple
One of the most sacred temples in northern Thailand. The temple is 15 km from Chiang Mai city. You can get a shared Songthaew for 40 baht per person one way from Huay Kaew Road near the Zoo or hire an entire songthaew for 500 Bahts from anywhere in Chaing Mai.
You have to climb 306 steps to reach the temple and it is frequented by the locals as it is considered to be a very important temple.
This temple was suggested by the owner of The Peaberry Hotel. The locals consider this to be an auspicious place to visit. It was good to see how the Thai people with families visit this place with great religious fervour.
Food
What is travel without food! Food in Chiang Mai is mouth-watering with at least one vegan cafe on every street. There are so many cafes in Chiang Mai each offering one specialty or the other. I loved the following places:
Reform Kafe
Banana Pancakes and Coconut ice cream
Tom Yum Soup
It is part of The green Tiger House hotel and the cafe serves all-vegan food. I liked their banana pancakes(perfectly cooked and filling), tomato rice and tom yum soup. The coconut ice cream, in particular, is the best in the entire Chiang Mai. Part of the seating is outdoors facing a little pool and a small garden. I really appreciate their giving an insect repellent spray at the time of placing my order.
Good Souls Kitchen
This is located on the main road and is owned by the owners of Reform Kafe. The difference is the ambience which is a high-end version of Reform Kafe and there is a small bar here. They have an extensive menu. Hot chocolate with Almond milk, Pineapple rice, burgers and fries are too good. Be prepared to spend some 250 Bahts for a meal served in large portions.
Aum Vegetarian Restaurant
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- Aumkausoi
This truly is a hidden gem. It might be a little hard to find the location. Look for a small board on the main road that leads you to a residential area. It is a family-run cafe. The setting is very simple and lovely. On the second floor, you can comfortably sit on the floor and eat. I tried many of their dishes and they all were too good and the price is reasonable. Dishes worth trying- Aumkausoi(Tofu, potatoes in coconut milk and rice noodles), Green curry rice and pineapple rice. One main dish and a fresh juice would cost about 180 Bahts.
Accommodation
There are plenty of hotels to choose from high-end resorts to budget hotels. Free wifi was included in all the places that I stayed in. From my personal experience, I would recommend the following hotels
Green Tiger House
This hotel is in Chiang Mai’s old city area. I booked this hotel at the last minute and had some apprehensions about the place but I only wished to have stayed there longer. I would say it is one of the best hotels that I enjoyed staying. It is highly recommended to book here well in advance( better to book even before months) as you will find it full almost any part of the year. Located in a quiet residential area yet close to temples, spas, restaurants and markets. The room rate starts from 2000 ( USD 65)Bahts a night which includes a delicious vegan breakfast.
The Peaberry Hotel
A small 3-star hotel located in a very nice area overlooking a moat. There are many cafes and massage parlours nearby. The rooms are basic with all the facilities. The owners of this hotel are friendly and their hospitality is wonderful.
Baan Sang Singh
It is in a peaceful location away from the main road and the hotel is very clean. I found the room to be very spacious with a balcony facing the pool. Saturday Walking Street is just a 12 min walk. The Friday market is also close by.
Night markets
Saturday Walking Street is huge and amazing. It is located behind the Chiang Mai Gate and is an excellent place to buy local handicrafts, souvenirs and clothes at a cheap price.
Sunday Walking Street is the place for shopping for all kinds of things – trinkets, handmade items like soaps, dolls, lamps and plenty of clothes(bargaining is common). Getting there early while the stalls are getting opened is a good idea as it can take several hours and it gets very crowded by the evening.
Spa
When it comes to Thailand, there definitely has to be a Thai massage without which your trip will be incomplete. Massage parlours are present almost everywhere in the city. I went to The Sense Spa located just a few steps away from The Peaberry Hotel and was happy with their service.
Some useful info
- One week in Chiang Mai is good enough and a few more days will be great if you want to have a relaxing trip.
- The Thai tourist visa is on arrival for Indians and many other nationalities. You have to pay 2000 Bahts and fill-up the form with a passport-sized photograph. The on-arrival visa is valid for 14 days. They do not usually ask for the accommodation details but it is better to have everything handy. You will be asked to present your return ticket.
- The 7-Eleven convenience store is an excellent place to buy water, groceries, snacks etc.
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